Windows 10 for gaming...

[storm84]

I have a similar thing, but also had it happening in 7.

I had it happen on 7 as well (and it's happening now on 10), but it only started happening when I got my SSD and changed my MB from Native IDE to AHCI. I just assumed that either my ahci drivers need updating, or that I need to go back to using Native IDE to accommodate the physical HDDs.

But I just don't know - it's frustrating when it happens and I'd like to solve it.

EDIT - a nice case in conflating correlation with causation. Correlated switching from Native IDE to AHCI as the cause when I should have looked at the clean Windows install I did on the SSD as the culprit.

[Spooler]

Ok so here's what you need to do to fix this.


Step 1:
Check your power options, go into your plan options and make sure that your hard drive is not set to power off after a certain timer.

Step 2:
If that doesn't work check your Bios some have power saving settings of their own for sata devices turn said settings off where it's safe to do some.

Step 3:
I'm out of ideas.

[storm84]

Ok so here's what you need to do to fix this.


Step 1:
Check your power options, go into your plan options and make sure that your hard drive is not set to power off after a certain timer.

This was set at 20 minutes. Trying this now.

Also changed my power scheme from balanced to high performance.


EDIT: that seems to have done the trick.

[n1cholas]

You want to be using AHCI for Native Command Queuing (NCQ) and Aggressive Link Power Management which reduces power usage. AHCI supports hotplugging is useful if your motherboard has an eSATA port(s)s and you use eSATA.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_ ... _Interface

Many motherboards have an Intel SATA controller and another SATA controller from another company (JMicron and ASMedia are common) for additional SATA ports.

I started having issues with an eSATA port that was connected to an ASMedia SATA controller and Linux didn't play well with the ASMedia SATA controller so I moved all my storage devices to the Intel SATA controller's SATA ports then I disabled the ASMedia SATA controller in the BIOS and I was surprised that Windows booted quicker and there was less I/O delay during file system operations.

Even if you set Windows to not turn off your HDDs some HDDs park their heads and/or go into a low power mode when idle and it can take a few seconds for normal operation performance to return after the HDD has been idle for a time.

[Yurtles]

Thanks for that post Nicholas, I hadn't thought to look at my bios before now (Why would I? I never touched any settings in it and never put a finger on my case) but it looks like my HDD was showing up in the bios on some boots and missing on others. If it was coming and going like that while in windows that'd explain what I'm seeing as easily as some weird sleep/power management thing.

I swapped the SATA cable out for a different one as an initial test and the HDD's been solidly visible and working properly since I did it earlier tonight. Which is interesting in itself, I had all sorts of trouble with (what turned out to be) the SATA cable I had connected to my SSD when I first built this system too. Maybe I just got a bad batch of cables with my motherboard or something.

Of course, none of this makes sense since it was working fine pre-Windows 10, but what can you do? If it's fixed, it's fixed.

[n1cholas]

I hadn't thought to look at my bios before now (Why would I? I never touched any settings in it and never put a finger on my case) but it looks like my HDD was showing up in the bios on some boots and missing on others. If it was coming and going like that while in windows that'd explain what I'm seeing as easily as some weird sleep/power management thing.

I suggest backing up any data on that HDD just in case the HDD has an issue.

If the HDD is attached to a non-Intel SATA controller I'd be moving it to the Intel SATA controller as I have seen detection issues on non-Intel SATA controllers, if you do swap SATA ports be sure to check storage boot priorities.

Sometimes updating firmware on non-Intel SATA controllers resolves issues but can also brick the SATA controller if the flash goes bad or introduce other issues.

Non-Intel SATA controllers also often require their own drivers from the OEM for optimal interoperability and/or performance and/or reliability.

I swapped the SATA cable out for a different one as an initial test and the HDD's been solidly visible and working properly since I did it earlier tonight. Which is interesting in itself, I had all sorts of trouble with (what turned out to be) the SATA cable I had connected to my SSD when I first built this system too. Maybe I just got a bad batch of cables with my motherboard or something.

Hopefully that was the cause of the issue.

Of course, none of this makes sense since it was working fine pre-Windows 10, but what can you do? If it's fixed, it's fixed.

It is theoretically possible that Windows 10 downloaded firmware and flashed the SATA controller the HDD is connected to which could have introduced the issue.

[Disruptor4]

I also noticed in power settings even if you set disks to never turn off, if you click into the advanced area, there is another option which doesn't actually disable. By default it's set to 20 minutes I think so I set it to 60.

[Treloar]

Has anyone tried Windows 10 IoT

I was looking at the raspberry pi 3 for a cheap PC and noticed you can download the core iso and upgrade, I presume it's free...

The raspberry Pi is approx. $83.60 (free postage, supposedly) - Anyone have experience with the following business

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B SBC
Raspberry Pi 2 Model B, Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Enclosure, Black
Raspberry Pi, 13W Plug In Power Supply 5.1V, 2.5A

[n1cholas]

Has anyone tried Windows 10 IoT [/url]

I got a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B bundle earlier this year from http://www.logicware.com.au which consisted of:
1. Raspberry Pi 3 Model B SBC
2. Third party case with fan
3. Third party power supply with on/off switch
4. 32GB Samsung Evo microSD
4. Heatsinks for the main system on a chip and RAM

I picked up the kit for ~$100.

The Raspberry Pi 3 Model B is a nice little beginner SBC but be under no illusion that it is anything close to a x86/64 PC both from a hardware or software standapoint.

If you're after a Windows SBC I'd recommend an Udoo SBC which while significantly more expensive will provide a much more pleasant experience with Windows 10.

https://www.udoo.org/udoo-x86/

The Raspberry Pi 3 Model B doesn't have sufficient CPU power or RAM to be anything other than an extremely basic Linux box.

I ended up re-purposing the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B as a Retropie unit for my brother-in-law as I found the hardware too limited for what I wanted to achieve.

[kharis]

Do you reckon the pi would work as a plex server?

[n1cholas]

Do you reckon the pi would work as a plex server?

It isn't powerful enough, lack of hardware support for H265 and VP8/9 decoding may mean it's not an ideal client in future.

https://www.reddit.com/r/PleX/comments/ ... enough_to/

[Treloar]

I was looking at the pi to do essentially just basicly office apps, browse Internet/check email and Skype. If it'll do that it's perfect.

Not looking at it as a gaming platform.

Thanks for those links, am looking at them now

[storm84]

The talk of a plex server reminded me of my oft-forgotten quest to get a NAS. I'll make another thread.

[kharis]

Sad panda

[n1cholas]

I was looking at the pi to do essentially just basicly office apps, browse Internet/check email and Skype. If it'll do that it's perfect.

Multitasking is miserable given the Pi 3 only has 1 GB of RAM.

If productivity is important you'll want to look at something more processor power and RAM, the amount of money you save on power bills from the Pi 3's lower power draw will be more than made up for with reduced productivity.

You can also get Windows 10 USB sticks but the problem with these is that should the integrated flash go bad you have a bricked device, they are also have significantly less powerful processors than the Udoo's and Intel NUCs.

[brimlad]

since the last windows 10 update I get these messages top left when I lock the pc . I'm hoping someone here might know which app is doing it so I can delete it
The only thing I use that pc for is gaming so dont know how that app decided to install itself

[Otto-matic Reiffel]

Don't think it's the standard Windows ads because they like to plaster them randomly over the screen. Cortana maybe?

[Mugsy]

The circle thingy seems to indicate Cortana.

[storm84]

I'm getting those Cortana messages too. They seem even more pointless by the fact that a) I don't have a touchscreen and b) I don't have a microphone.

[Mini]

I disabled Cortana... but I don't remember how...

[Otto-matic Reiffel]

https://www.howtogeek.com/265027/how-to ... indows-10/